Rafting the Grand Canyon – A Week of WOW!

Monday, 9/28, marked a week on the river. Sadly it was also our last full day together as a group. Tomorrow is exchange day with some folks hiking out on the Bright Angel Trail and others coming down from the rim to join us. But we have a full day of amazing white water and fun before that happens!

We started the day with a hike up the dry wash next to Nevill’s camp where Mandela played her digeridoo.

Mandela on the hike.

We stopped about a mile downriver to scout one of the major rapids. Hance Rapid is rated a 9 out of 10 (yes, the Grand Canyon uses a scale of 10 instead of the 1-5 scale used everywhere else, don’t ask me why!).  We had several larger rapids today and in Matt’s oar boat we got a front row seat, going through the rapids first and then getting to watch everyone else.

Scouting Hanse Rapid.

The paddle boat A-Team is ready to rock and roll!
L-R: Cole, Tina, Susie, Mandela, Ashley, Claudia & Chris (photo credit: Ashley)

Mara's oar boat in the rapid.

Our lunch break was extended with a hike up Clear Creek to a spectacular horizontal waterfall. A great place to play in the water. Luckily, the side canyon streams aren’t quite as cold as the Colorado. Although none of them can be described as warm! Lol.

Climbing up from the river and then along the creek.

 

The aptly named Horizontal Waterfall on the right. 

Not quite the "Ice Bucket Challenge", but close!
I met the challenge and then got Rog in on the action.

Andy on the left.  Ashley, Susie, Cole and Kaz on the right.

Fun time is over and we hike back to the boats.

We camped just above Zoroaster Rapid (river mile 85) with a lovely view and a bright, nearly full moon.

Shadows fall as we make camp.

 

The moon is crazy bright above the cliffs.

Day 8 - Exchange day. ☹ We have had such a fantastic group it is hard to break up our happy family. Susie, siblings Ashley and Cole along with Chris, Claudia and their dad, Kaz are all hiking out today. We’re losing all our young blood!  Suddenly the average age of our group has increased by a decade or so. Lol. I was surprised when the guides said that 60 was typically the average age of the guests. I would have thought younger given the challenging hiking and adventurous nature of the trip. I guess when you think about the expense and amount of time folks have to take off work that makes sense. But before we shed our goodbye tears, we have some fun rapids and a great hike ahead of us.

We navigate Zoroaster Rapid, riding in Jesse’s dory, and then have a fairly sedate float past the Kaibab and Bright Angel Bridges. Both bridges connect the north and south sides of the canyon and provide access to Phantom Ranch. Usually we’d have the option of checking out Phantom Ranch during the exchange, but due to COVID they are understandably limiting visitors.

Entering Zoroaster Rapid.

 

We float under the Kaibab Bridge near Phantom Ranch.

Signs of civilization at Pipe Creek.

We pull in at Pipe Creek and say a sad farewell to those hiking out. It’s about 8 miles from the river to the rim with an elevation change of 4460 feet. Gulp. That is a lot of up (or down). Rog and I opt to hike along to the exchange spot near Indian Gardens, about 3 miles up the trail. It’s a beautiful day and lovely trail, but I’m glad we’re doing the “easy” portion. Apparently it gets steeper further along.

Last assembly of the Upper Canyon crew. 

The trail switchbacks up from the river.

Trees and vegetation grow along Pipe Creek and...

...the sheer cliffs provide welcome shade.

We even got to see a mule train coming down the trail!

Back at Pipe Creek we get to meet the new additions to the family. Tom and his son-in-law, Phil, Catherine who was a friend of Mandela’s and her first yoga instructor when she was 8 years old, another couple Karen and James, and Tim and Kendall, who will be working as assistant guides. Once everyone has assembled we waste no time getting back in the boats – there are big rapids ahead! Several of the new folks are experienced paddlers, so Mandala puts together a new team for her boat.

Exchange complete and we're back on the river.

Mandela stands to survey the rapid ahead.

And there they go!

An E-ticket ride!

As the miles pass and we move downriver the character of the canyon has changed. We are now seeing what is called “basement” rock – Vishnu schist and Zoroaster granite dating back to the Precambrian era 1.8 billion years ago. Compare that to the Kaibab limestone at the rim, a mere (lol) 250 million years old. The canyon provides geologists with an amazing record as well as plenty of mysteries. (More on that later!) We made Schist Camp (river mile 96.5) and settled in to get acquainted with our new family members.

We see older basement rock as we move downriver.
The water polished and carved rock on the right is fluted schist. 

Schist Camp.

Hello! 
I found a new camp buddy hiding under my sleeping mat.

View from camp.

We’re back in Mark’s oar boat for Day 9 (Wednesday, 9/30). It’s a great white water day! Boucher, Crystal, the Gems… Mark skillfully navigates while we just hold on. I wish I could show you the big rapids, but I’ve got a death grip on the boat and no free hands to take pictures! Lol.

 

Rog is about to get WET! 

Where did the boat go???

The water looks even bigger...

...when your butt is in the river. 
Phil and Kendall take on the Colorado in the duckies. 

We do a short hike at lunch up Shinumo Creek to a waterfall. This one is fun because you can swim behind it and then slide through the fall. It's a great example of a "wet hike", meaning you are walking, wading or swimming for part of it! 

The very definition of "wet hike".

Camp tonight is at Lower Garnet (river mile 115), named for the gorgeous red granite (yes, with garnet inclusions!). It’s hard to believe we’ve traveled over a hundred miles on the river. The days are getting shorter and we often end up eating dinner and doing the dishes by lantern light and then turning in for the night by 8:30pm. No screens or phones – life guided by nature’s rhythms, looking up at the stars each night – I’m going to miss that when we get home. 

Things mellow out as we approach camp. 

Lower Garnet camp.
Rog searches for the perfect spot; Andy and Tim provide entertainment; dinner and dishes by lantern light. 

We're more than halfway through our trip and have enjoying every minute of it! However, I do need to figure out a way to cover more in these blog posts before you end up bored, bored, bored!