Monday, October 31, 2016

Bye-Bye Baby, So-Long Smokies, and Our 3-Month Anniversary!

We spent most of Monday, 10/24, in the car doing the five-hour round-trip trek to the Knoxville, TN airport. We were sorry to see Rian go, but we know that she was anxious to get back to Floyd (her four-legged child) and has responsibilities and a life of her own to live.

We needed to stretch our legs (and get in some steps!) when we made it back to the campground so we walked part of the Bradley Fork Trail and finally found the old Bradley cemetery. Many of the headstones were unmarked, but those with dates were from the mid-late 1800s into the early 1900’s. Very cool.

Headstones from the late 1800's in the old Bradley Cemetery.

The Bradley Fork runs through the campground.

On Tuesday, I dropped Rog off to ride the Tsali mountain bike trails. These trails are rated as “Epic” by the International Mountain Biking Association and he was super excited to check them out. There are four loop trails, but they alternate use with horseback riders so only two are available for mountain biking on any given day. Rog lucked out, as the two longer loops (about 29 miles total) were open to bikes on Tuesdays.

Rog is excited to embark on his "epic" mountain bike ride!

He's off and it's a beautiful day for a ride.

Fast, fun trail and no rock garden!

This part is a little narrow and wet if you miss the turn!

Great trail and awesome view of Lake Fontana.

I headed back to Bryson City with the laundry. Whoohoo!  I actually lucked out too, as the laundromat had free Wifi. So I worked on the blog and was able to amuse myself until Rog called to say he was ready to be picked up. I’d been a little worried about his rib giving him trouble and when he called almost two hours earlier than expected, I thought maybe he’d opted to cut his ride short. Nope, he’d ridden both loops and everything else that was open to him. He really enjoyed the trails, fun riding, great views and far fewer rock gardens wanting a piece of him. Lol.

We grabbed dinner in Bryson City and then headed back to camp to prepare for our departure in the morning.

We stayed Wednesday night in a RV park in Kinards, South Carolina and arrived at our next destination - Poinsett State Park in Wedgefield, SC – in the afternoon on Thursday, 10/27
The Garmin did us wrong again (will we ever learn?) so we had to look up the directions on the park website. “Continue on Hwy 261 until you see signs for Poinsett. Park will be on the right.” That sounds easy enough, right? HA! You know it’s never a good thing when I’m apologizing to Rog and wondering what in the heck I’d gotten us into as we’re driving the narrow, windy road to the park. It just kept narrower and narrower until it was just a single lane one-way road without any traffic control. Please note – you cannot back up the RV while towing a car, so if we meet anything larger than a mouse coming in the opposite direction we are hosed! Ugh.  It felt like miles until we came to another sign for the campground entrance and then it just got better – a one-way, rutted, dirt road. Lol.  We did finally make it to our site and delicately maneuvered the bus into a lovely spot, avoiding the worst of the ruts.

Really, our campsite is great – it was just getting here that was a challenge. Part of the problem could be residual damage from Hurricane Matthew. We chose Poinsett in part because of the mountain bike/hiking trails and ALL the trails are closed for at least another week while they work on clearing downed trees and repairing damage. We visited the park office and explored the nearby ruins of an old mill. The mill pond is pretty and the park staff told us about an overlook we could walk to – but no trails will be open while we’re here, bummer. We’ll head over to Congaree National Park tomorrow. Hopefully we’ll have better luck there.

ALL the park trails were closed, compliments of Hurricane Matthew.

Pretty mill pond and the visitor center. 

Not much of the old mill left, but I do love the mill stones!

The sluice from the pond at the old mill site. 

Sunset from the park overlook.

October 25th was our three-month anniversary on the road! We’re already a quarter of the way through our year – how did that happen?! So far we’ve traveled 6302 miles in the RV (not counting day trips in the CRV), gone through 705 gallons of diesel, stayed at 37 different places, visited 9 National Parks/Monuments, several state/local parks, and hit 23 states.  Wow.

I know I said our goal was to try to slow down some. Well, that didn’t quite happen. Are you surprised?? No? Me either. Lol.  We did manage fewer travel days this past month – staying seven days in Lewistown when we visited family and nine days in the Great Smokies when Rian came to visit us. But we still managed to pack those days full.

Looking at what we’ve got coming up next – the International Revolver Competition and then Randi and her fiancĂ© Ryan join us for 10 days at Universal Studios/Disneyworld – it just isn’t realistic to think we’ll be taking it easy any time soon. Maybe AFTER that?? No, then we have three National Parks in Florida and the holidays are coming up quick! Maybe AFTER that?? Sure thing. Lol. 

You know what though, it’s all good. We are healthy and happy and busy is better than busted! The coach and CRV are still running well with just a few minor issues. Rog had to replace a part on fridge because the temp kept fluctuating and freezing our greens – maybe a sign I should eat less salad and more ice cream. Lol.  Oh and my FitBit died. Hmmmm… could that be a sign I should sit more, you know, to eat all that ice cream. Naaaah.  I actually had the foresight to pack Rog’s old FitBit when he upgraded, so I’m using that now and only lost a couple days of data. Of course, those were all 20K step days I assure you. Lol.  

I know you all are busy too, so thanks for taking the time to join us on our journey!


Saturday, October 29, 2016

Newfound Gap Sunrise, Third Time’s the Charm & Andrew’s Bald

We put our coffee in a to-go mug and headed up to Newfound Gap early on Sunday, 10/23, to try and catch the sunrise. It’s hard to time it just right and with a clear sky we didn’t get the dramatic shots we were hoping for – still it was gorgeous. Newfound Gap is at 5048 feet and it was pretty darn cold. 


Early morning color at Newfound Gap.

Rising sun and ice still on the trees.

Sunrise on the Smokies.

We weren’t sure what Clingman’s dome would be like, but we were fairly certain it wasn’t going to be any warmer! Lol. In that we were right. It was still icy with temps below freezing – not exactly ideal hiking weather. A change in plans – a detour to Starbucks for a hot chili mocha and then we’ll come back and hike in the afternoon after it’s had a chance to warm up a bit. All in favor, say, “Aye”. The vote was unanimous. Lol.

At Clingman's Dome you can look down on the clouds.

Icy hike or Starbucks - that's a no brainer. Lol.

Even the weeds look good dressed for winter.

We drove through Gatlinburg but couldn’t find parking so went back to the Starbucks in Pigeon Forge. Ugh! We made good use of the Wifi (got two blog posts uploaded!) and lingered over our coffees. By the time we finished it was getting close to lunch so we ended up waiting in the incredibly long and s—l—o—w line to grab some food for the road. Must be a southern thing, I’ve never stood so long in a Starbucks line – I was seriously thinking I would owe rent if it took any longer!

Anyhow, the crowds should have been a tipoff. As we headed back to the park the traffic slowed to a crawl and stayed that way, inching along bumper to bumper for miles and miles. When we turned up the road to the Dome we knew we were in trouble. The road is seven miles from the turnoff to the Dome and it was packed. Even though the Dome parking lot is large there is no way it could accommodate even a fraction of the folks trying to get up there. About a mile or so below the dome cars were lining the roadside. We crept along a little farther and decided those folks had the right idea, we were watching them make much better time walking than we were in the car. Rog found an open spot and we hiked up to the dome. Apparently Sunday afternoon is an extremely popular time to drive the park and visit the overlooks. Lesson learned. :)

By mid-afternoon we finally made it to the top of Clingman’s Dome observation tower – third time’s the charm! It was still icy anyplace there was shade and I doubt we could have made it up this morning, even if it had been open. 

Observation tower at Clingman's Dome.

Definitely using the handrails - it's icy up here!

Part of the spiral ramp to the observation tower, it would've been a fun ride if we could have just slid down. 

Luckily the trailhead for our planned hike to Andrew’s Bald left right out of the parking lot at the Dome.  “Bald” is not a comment on Andrew's hairstyle, it's an open meadow, typically with views of the surrounding mountains.There was a little residual snow along the trail, but the sun was out and the 3.6-mile hike was fairly pleasant. Still lots of up and down, but we had a nice break sitting in the sunny meadow before starting back. Rian even made a new friend. At least until he jumped and we screamed. Lol.


Red berries against the blue sky.

Much of the hike was through the pine forest.


Rog enjoying the view from the Bald.

We're enjoying the sunshine and a well deserved break. Lol. 

Look! Rian made a new friend.
He was pretty patient ...
... and then he jumped and we both screamed! Lol. 

Rian’s flight leaves tomorrow afternoon (Monday, 10/24), so this was our last day together. I can’t believe how quickly the time as flown! It’s been fun to have her visit and I hope she enjoyed her time here. We sure had some crazy adventures with the temperature swinging from 90˚ to 28˚ in just two days! We don’t leave the Smokies until Wednesday and Rog is scoping out nearby mountain bike trails for tomorrow. Guess his rib must be feeling better. Lol. 

Thursday, October 27, 2016

Mingus Mill, Museums, and CRAZY Weather at Clingman’s Dome

The weatherman did not lie and we awoke to a drippy Friday morning. No worries, it was perfect weather for huckleberry (from Glacier NP!) pancakes and a slow start to the day. We decided to visit the Mingus Mill and the Farm Museum which are near the Oconaluftee Visitors Center (say that three times fast). Lol.

Mingus Mill is a water powered grist mill that is still operational, we didn’t get to see them grinding but we did pick up some cornmeal so we’ll have fresh cornbread to go with our chili for dinner. Yum. Educational and delicious.

Mingus Mill

Loved the huge grist stone.

View from the mill window.

The mill from the nearby trail.

Caught a break in the weather, perfect time for a stroll. (photo:Rian)

The Farm Museum is a collection of buildings that were relocated from around the park and depict farm life circa 1900. Like Shenandoah, there were many families living in the area that had to relocate after the park was created. Many of the original buildings were razed until the park service finally realized there was historic value in preserving some of the original structures.

Farm Museum buildings.

I like the kitchen in the RV much better! :)

We can see who rules the roost!

Caught a bit of a rainbow over the Farm Museum. 

The drizzle continued off and on throughout the morning so we decided to drive some of the Blue Ridge Parkway and then visit the Cherokee Museum in Cherokee, NC. Appropriate, eh?  The Blue Ridge Parkway was lovely and way more fun in the car than trying to navigate similar roads in the RV! We spent a couple of interesting hours in the Cherokee Museum, Rian’s degree includes a minor in ethnic studies with a concentration in Native American history so she was very familiar with a lot of the information in the exhibits. Powerful and tragic.

Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Cloudy with a few sun breaks today.

The weather front that brought the rain was also supposed to bring cooler temps. Considering it had hit 90˚on Thursday we weren’t too concerned. A little brisk weather would make the hiking that much more enjoyable. Well were we in for a surprise! 

We got up early on Saturday and headed for Clingman’s Dome. At 6,643 feet, the dome is the highest peak in the park. There is an observation tower with a long, spiral concrete ramp to the top which has 360˚ views of the mountains. As the road began climbing towards Clingman’s Dome we noticed white on the hillsides. Hmmmmm… heavy frost, freezing fog, what’s up? Well the “cooler” weather had translated into 28˚ temps with SNOW and ICE at 6000 feet! We couldn’t believe it! The road near the top was slick and the parking lot was a solid sheet of ice. The observation tower was closed and while we were there the Rangers came around and said they were closing the road up until it could be plowed and suggested we head back down. It was so unexpected – we were really glad we had a chance to see it, it was beautiful but really, really cold and windy! We heeded the Ranger’s advice and headed back to camp – we’ll try the Dome again tomorrow when it’s hopefully a little warmer!


Heading up to the Dome we saw frost...

...and then it got colder and whiter.

We weren't dressed for an arctic expedition!

About midway, it was clear it was more than a heavy frost.

Nature is pretty dressed in white.

From the Dome parking lot.

Beautiful... but only 28 degrees and windy!

View from the top - or as high as we could get today!

Back at the campground the temps were in the 50’s, it felt downright balmy. Lol. We hiked the Smokemont Loop Trail and hunted in the creek for salamanders. Rog and Rian found one, but he made a quick getaway, the crawfish wasn’t as fast. Lol.

No snow here - just sunlight through the leaves.

Rian carefully navigates a log bridge.
Salamander hunting... none here...

... or here...
Hello! Not a salamander, but a fun find anyway.  (Photo: Rian)

Tomorrow we’re planning another early start - sunrise pictures at Newfound Gap and another shot at Clingman’s Dome are on the agenda.