Grand Canyon Rafting Trip – More Awesomeness!

As we floated the river, we thought repeatedly about the experience of early explorers who first navigated a very different river. The Colorado River is no longer a wild river. Flows are regulated by the Glen Canyon Dam which generates power for municipalities in seven states (a “cash register dam”). The water volume varies based on demand, but we had fairly consistent moderate flows of 8-12,000 cfs during our trip. The average river depth is 33 ft – varying from a few feet to 90 ft deep. The canyon itself changes as you move downriver. Sheer cliffs constrict the river is some places, just 76 ft wide at the narrowest part and opening up at its widest to over 600 ft. Usually the Colorado is a muddy, chocolate brown from sediment washed in from the side canyons. The first settlers said it was “too thick to drink and too thin to plow.” However, there wasn’t much of a monsoon season this year and we were treated to beautiful, emerald green water the whole way down the canyon!

 

Rog enjoys the view.

The Colorado is a pool and drop river with stretches of placid water punctuated by rapids where the river plunges swiftly. The river drops a total of 1,900 ft between Lees Ferry and Lake Mead, 50% of that drop takes place in the more than 165 rapids which account for only 9% of the distance. Most of the rapids are formed by debris fans where flash floods have deposited boulders and obstructions near the mouth of side canyons.  What none of those numbers can convey is the sheer majesty and power of the river. Crashing waves, keeper holes, whirlpools and eddies… the river is always moving and changing. 

Pool and drop means relative calm...

...punctuated by white water!

On our second day, we rode with Mark in his oar boat and he said, “A boatman only uses his oars to suggest to the river where he wants to go.” Lol. I tried my hand at the oars and quickly gained a new found respect for the strength and skill needed to navigate the river.

 

The river wasn't very receptive to my suggestions. Lol.

After a cloudy first day, it was sunny with temps in the 90’s and low 100’s our entire time in the canyon. The guides were calling it Juntober and it was perfect! Hot and sunny was good, because the water, which is released from the bottom of Glen Canyon Dam is COLD. A teeth-chattering 50-55°. No matter how hot and sunny it is, a soaking in 50° water is a shocker. And we had lots of experience with that. Day 2 on the river (Wednesday, 9/23) was a fun day of white water! We did a section of the river called the “Roaring 20’s” with rapids about every mile or so. Woohoo! Patrick and Andy manned the duckies in the moderate rapids. The guides pulled the duckies before Tiger Wash, which came close to flipping the paddle boat. A huge lateral wave tipped the paddle boat nearly vertical and Tigers Cole, Claudia and Chris and even Tiger Mandela went for a brief swim.😲 

Mark lines up his approach.

Even the riffles look big from here. Lol.

Andy in the ducky followed by Mara's oar boat.

Ducky Down!
The paddle boat offers a hand when Patrick goes for a chilly swim. 

We did some hiking almost every day of our trip. The colors, formations, plants and hidden water features in the side canyons were an unexpected delight. On Day 2 we did a short hike to the North Canyon pool. Mandela brought her digeridoo (an Australian Aboriginal wind instrument) and played. So peaceful and beautiful.

 

The side canyons had amazing rocks and plants. This is Sacred Datura.

Mandela talks about the digeridoo and then plays for us.
What a treat!

North Canyon pool. Lovely.

We camped our second evening at Silver Grotto (River Mile 29.5) and had a lovely evening getting to know our fellow travelers better. It was so much fun to find kindred spirits and make new friends.

 

Kitchen set up at Silver Grotto camp. 

Day 3 (Thursday, 9/24) was our first day in the paddle boat with Mandela. I must confess that when asked about our interest in paddling, we said not only no, but hell no! Mandela inspired a change of heart. The comradery and her patient coaching and enthusiasm made it so much fun. While we never made the “A team” that tackled the biggest rapids we did spend 3-4 days in the paddle boat and thoroughly enjoyed it!

 

So much for "hell no". On the paddle boat and loving it!
(Thanks Ashley for the photo)

We stopped at South Canyon for a hike but we got chased off by an amorous Big Horn ram. It was rut season and we apparently interrupted a hot date. The ram was not amused. At first he and his ewe moved away from the beach, but then he kept coming closer and closer, giving us the stinkeye. Mara was reading a passage from a compilation of river guide stories about a guide who repeatedly BAAAAAAA’ed at a ram and ended up being chased into the river. Each time she would BAAAAAA the ram would come a little closer. It didn’t take long for Jesse to call everyone back into the boats and we beat a hasty retreat. Life imitates art. Lol.

Coming back to defend his love interest.

We were definitely getting the stink eye!

Mandela pointed out several interesting features along the river. Stanton Cave is over 400 ft deep and contains fossils and early artifacts. There are thousands of archeological sites along the river. Some you can explore, others are off-limits. I loved that the guides were so knowledgeable and eager to share the history of the canyon.

Stanton's Cave

 

Vasey's Paradise. 

We stopped for a break at Redwall Cavern. What an amazing place! A huge sandy cavern hollowed out at the base of the cliffs. It was fun to explore, searching out fossils and a perfect spot for playing frisbee. I’m sharing a couple of pictures taken by Andy, since his turned out way better than mine!

Approaching Redwall Cavern.
(Photo credit: Andy)

Inside the cavern looking out. So cool!
(Photo credit: Andy)

Mandela strikes a yoga pose. 

Claudia, Chris and Cole in silhouette.

Very cool fossils at Redwall Cavern.

Plenty of room for a game of Frisbee.

On a more serious note we also passed tailing piles from bore holes made in preparation for the Marble Canyon Dam proposed in the 1940’s. It would have been another cash register dam generating hydroelectric power, but it would have reduced the Colorado River to a trickle through the Grand Canyon. It was finally abandoned after concerted efforts by early conservationists in the 1960's. The dam would have flooded both Redwall Cavern and Vasey's Paradise. Arrrrrrgh! The area has since been incorporated into the National Park, but it's a timely reminder that we must always remain vigilant to protect these precious natural wonders.

 

Bore holes for the proposed Marble Canyon Dam.

Definitely worth saving!

Day 3 ended at Eminence camp at river mile 44.5. We have an awesome hike planned for the morning that I think you’re going to love!