Gallinas, Coronado, Not Bluewater, and El Morro

Open rangeland to explore at Gallinas Group Site.

If you’ve followed the blog for very long, you know that my favorite flavor of camping is boondocking (free camping on public lands). There’s not much we enjoy more than having privacy, beautiful scenery, and a place to let the pups off-leash. We had all that and more at Gallinas Group Site, a BLM area near Corona, NM. We read that the site is popular during hunting season, but often deserted at other times. We arrived in the early afternoon on Monday, 4/17, and had the entire area completely to ourselves until after suppertime when just one other RV pulled in. Typically, there are no amenities at boondocking sites, but this one had a pit toilet and garbage cans. Another advantage, it was only 100 yards or so off SR54, so we didn’t have to drives for miles down a dusty gravel road. Put this one on your list! We just wished we could have stayed longer.

Huge grassy area for the kids to play on.

Relaxing in the shade of the Junipers. 

Another lovely sunset in paradise.

Why didn’t we? Well, the winds were about to make a serious comeback. So, we either had to beat feet or stay put for several days. We had a long to-do list and reservations at a campground outside of Albuquerque, so off we went. Let’s just say that between the blustery weather, truck traffic, and crappy road conditions, it was another no-fun driving day for Rog.

We pulled into Coronado Campground in Bernalillo, NM on Tuesday, 4/18. We had three days reserved which we figured would get us through the worst of the winds. I immediately got busy and headed to the laundromat with a couple weeks’ worth of laundry for four. Trust me, although Raney and Riley may not wear clothes, they sure shed and goober on everything we own, so I’m counting them! Lol. Dinner that evening was at Bosque Brewery conveniently located right next to the campground. Rather than walking all the way out to the highway and the main entrance, we climbed a few strategically placed pallets and hopped the fence into their back parking lot. Guess if you have trouble on the return trip, it’s a good indicator you had too much to drink. (We did fine, thank you very much. Lol.) On Thursday evening we also tried out Starr Brothers Bewery in Albuquerque. Chicken Hatch Green Chile Hushpuppies. That's all I need to say. Yum.

Parked for a few days to sit out the windstorm.

Raney and Riley liked the shady casita too.

Bosque Brewery, a short fence hop away. Lol. 

Wednesday, things really kicked up with sustained winds of 34mph and gusts up to 49mph. We’d designated this day for all our shopping. We hit Costco, Trader Joe’s, got groceries and gas, and picked up meds. Back at the campground, we also found a great spot for the pups to play off-lead and dip their paws in the Rio Grande.

Fun times by the Rio Grande.

On Thursday, 4/17, we made the short walk from the campground to the Coronado Historical Site. It is the location of the Kuaua Pueblo, settled around 1325 and then abandoned toward the end of the 16th century. Archeologists in the 1930’s were convinced that this was the place where Vasquez de Coronado stayed in 1540–1542. Although no evidence of Coronado was found, the site still bears his name. What they did find, however, was a series of murals in one of the kivas. There were at least 17 layers of murals painted over each other. Archeologists removed the walls and sent them to University of New Mexico for preservation. The murals represent one of the finest examples of pre-contact Native American art to be found anywhere in North America.

Most of the excavated pueblo was filled back in to preserve it, but a few areas were rebuilt so visitors can get a sense of early pueblo life. The volunteer docent showed us some of the original preserved murals and the kiva where a native artist had reproduced the images. Photographs were not allowed, so I found this public domain image of the mural on-line.

Rog climbs the ladder to the kiva. The murals were recreated by a native artist.

A few buildings and artifacts from the early pueblo village have been rebuilt.

We left on Friday, 4/21, for Bluewater Lake State Park near Prewitt, NM. The state park has six “campgrounds” with a total of 75 sites plus primitive camping along the far side of the lake. The entire park is first come/first served until the middle of May. We parked the RV and unhitched to scout. There were plenty of sites available, including some with electric, but we opted for a spacious dry-camping spot in Pinon Cliffs with a splendid view of the lake. Speaking of which, Bluewater Lake was not. Lol. It was actually a lovely shade of brown from the spring runoff, but I guess Chocolate Milk Lake just doesn’t have the same ring to it. There are also supposed to be wild horses in the area. There is plenty of supporting evidence, although after five days of searching we've not seen hide nor hair of them. From the copious amount of droppings, which are everywhere, I can't believe we haven't spotted at least one. All of which leads me to believe they must be invisible horses. Do you have a better theory?  😊

If that water is blue, then I can see horses too. Lol.

We got a great spot by the lake.

We did love the campground though. There were three short trails totaling about two miles. One went to an overlook of the dam that impounds Bluewater Lake and the others descended into the canyon to skirt Bluewater Creek. Once we were down in the canyon, the dogs could run and explore to their heart’s content. Silly, muddy puppers enjoyed themselves immensely and they both showed off their trail dog skills on the steep, rocky climb into and out of the canyon. Raney was also game to cross the creek on the steppingstones, Riley made it half way and decided he'd rather wade. Lol.

(Not) Bluewater Lake Dam.

We all enjoyed Canyonside Trail.

Our handsome boy.

The dam from the creek-side.

Riley made it halfway across the creek on the stones, and then...

...nope. I'd rather wade.

Both of the pups managed the steep, rocky climb easily.

We ended up staying five nights at Bluewater State Park. Part of that was because yet another windstorm was forecast, but we also decided to use it as a base camp for several day trips. Our first excursion was to El Morro National Monument on Saturday, 4/22. We loaded up the pups and set out to explore. El Morro means “the headland or bluff” in Spanish. This area was home to early pueblo Indians, a way point for Spanish explorers in the 1600’s, and later for US Calvary, railroad surveyors, and emigrants in the 1800’s. Not only was El Morro an impressive landmark, but it also provided precious water. At the base of the cliff is a pool, fed largely by runoff, that is about 12 feet deep and holds 200,000 gallons of water.

El Morro.

Water is a precious commodity in the desert.

Beginning with petroglyphs carved into the sandstone by early native peoples, visitors over the centuries left their mark – carving names, dates, and inscriptions into the sandstone cliff. It’s an amazing historic record. One of the earliest dated records was inscribed by the first governor of Spanish New Mexico in 1605, fifteen years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. The park provides a fascinating field guide that deciphers many of the Spanish inscriptions and provides information about some of the explorers, soldiers, and emigrants who left their mark. More than 2000 inscriptions and petroglyphs cover the rock. When El Morro was designated a National Monument in 1906, early park administrators removed all writing on the wall made after that date.

Petroglyphs carved into the sandstone.

One of the earliest inscriptions by the Spanish govenor dated 1605. Wow.

Translation: On the 25th of the month of June of this year 1709,
Ramon Garcia Juardo passed through here on the way to Zuni.

Captain R.H. Orton of the First Calvary was sent to New Mexico
to reinforce Federal troops during the civil war.

Many emmigrants stopped and signed in on their way to California. 
These are dated April 1859.

In 1868, the Union Pacific Railway sent a survey crew to the area.

But wait, that’s not all! Lol. After perusing ancient graffiti, we took the pups on the 2-mile Headland Trail. It started off as a lovely stroll with great views of El Morro and the surrounding area. Then we climbed steep, narrow switchbacks to gain 242 feet in elevation and walk across a sandstone ridge. There were some…ahem…interesting spots scrambling across rocks near steep drop-offs. It wouldn’t have been that bad, but the park allows visitors to hike the trail in either direction, so we had to pass other people and dogs in some very narrow spots. No fun with an exuberant puppy and a sometimes-grumpy old man. However, both Raney and Riley were troopers and did great.  

The trail started off wide and flat.

An easy stroll along the base of the sandstone bluffs.

And then it got interesting. Lol.
Do you see those tiny people out there?

Views along from the trial.

The views were stunning. We passed a huge box canyon that was once used to corral livestock and the remnants of pueblo dwellings. To descend, instead of switchbacks we traipsed down 132 stairs. I wasn’t thrilled about that, but again, the trail dogs did an amazing job! We’ve come a long way from when I would carry Raney up and down the RV’s four steps. Lol.

Huge box canyon, seen from above.

We paused for a break under a pine tree.

Pueblo ruins atop El Morro date from about 1275.

Steps, steps and more steps!

Well, I’m going to wrap this up because we have two more day trips to share and there is no way I can begin to fit it all into one blog post. You’d be scrolling for days. Lol. Stay tuned, the Bisti Badlands, El Malpais National Monument and a super cool Junkyard Brewery are coming up!