Who was John Day anyway?

We are camped just outside the town of John Day at a state park along the John Day River and I’m super hyped about our visit to the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. Who was this guy anyway? I was thinking maybe an early explorer, statesman, or scientist. Must be somebody important, right? Actually, no. In fact, he’d probably rather not be so well known. 

In 1812, John Day was camped where the Mah-hah River meets the Columbia when he was robbed of all his belongings, including his clothes. He was rescued by a party of trappers headed to the trading post in Astoria, OR. John Day, and the story, became well known. Whenever someone would pass the site of the incident, they’d point out where John Day had been robbed. Soon the Mah-hah River became known as the John Day River. Which in turn gave its name to the town and the fossil beds. Go figure. There's your history lesson for today. :)

The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is comprised of three units (Sheep Rock, Clarno, and the Painted Hills) that are a couple hours drive apart. From Clyde Holliday State Park outside of John Day (the town) we hit the Sheep Rock Unit, which is the largest of the three. Since this unit also has the visitors center and longest hiking trails (about 5 miles total) we left Riley to nap in air-conditioned comfort. We stopped first at the Mascall Overlook and then did the Blue Basin hike. The colors of the mud (very green!) and the rocks (blue, green, yellow and cream) were fascinating. Erosion has revealed the different colored layers, each representing distinct geological events and eras. It’s like a multi-hued layer cake millions of years in the making!

Mascall Overlook.

Blue Basin.

Facial anyone?
That green mud looks just like a clay face mask I once used. :)

This hill is really GREEN - the photos don't do it justice.

Love the layers.

Green hills in front, bright red behind.

Racing the rain. Thunderstorm heading our way.

Cathedral Rock.

Another interesting trip back into more recent history is the Kam Wah Chung State Heritage Site in the town of John Day. Chinese immigrants flocked to the area for work on the railroad and in the mines. In the 1880’s, John Day had the third largest population of Chinese immigrants in the country. In the face of tremendous racial bigotry, violence, and discrimination, two immigrants (Ing Hay and Lung On) established Kam Wah Chung & Co, a successful dry goods store, herbalist shop, and import business. When the mining boom ended, most of the immigrants moved on, but they stayed. They lived for 60 years in the same building and became respected members of the community.

Lung On died in 1940. In 1948, Ing Hay locked up the building for what was supposed to be a temporary stay in a nursing home, but he never returned. The building and all its contents remained frozen in time. Now a State Heritage Site, the treasure trove of artifacts, personal records, and letters includes one of the largest collections of Chinese herbal medicines in the US. Their records are still being translated from Cantonese and reveal a fascinating and challenging way of life. It was especially fun for me to see a whole building full of the period antiques I routinely buy and sell just as they were when Lung On locked the door in the 1940’s.

This unassuming little building is really a time machine!

It's like walking into the 1940's. So cool!

Coffee or tea?

The very interesting and popular apothecary specializing in Chinese herbal remedies.

Thursday was a Riley day and we took him to Magone Lake to play. With shaded trails and water to splash in, this was his idea of a fun outing!

Magone Lake.

Shade and water, Riley approves!

Busy Beavers!

What do you see, Riley?

Friday, 5/25, we moved to a boondocking site on Burnt Ranch Road outside of Mitchell, OR. That evening we had the whole area all to ourselves. Saturday it looked like Woodstock! There must have been at least 7 or 8 other campers set up. Then Sunday we were totally alone again. It was hilarious. Riley liked playing in the stream and we enjoyed the quiet and solitude – at least on two out of three nights. Lol.

Campfire buddies.

From our spot near Mitchell, we drove to the Clarno Unit. Since it was a couple hours each way and Riley was still being squirrely in the back of the CRV, we decided to try him in the back seat. He settled right down. He likes resting his chin on the center console between us; typical mastiff, if he’s outside of touching distance he’s not happy.

The Clarno Unit had a few short hiking trails and Riley got to come along. The trails were in the sun, steep, and there was no water anywhere. Riley wasn’t a fan.

Hike to the Palisades.

Clarno Arch.

On Sunday we finally made it to the Painted Hills. Actually we went three times. :) This area is one I was really looking forward to seeing. Fossils are cool, but I just fell in love with the vibrant colors and air-brushed look of the Painted Hills. It’s a small unit, so you can see everything in a couple hours. We took Riley in the morning and did the drive through and shorter hikes. Then we dropped him off at the coach and Rog and I returned to do the longer Carroll Rim Trail. It was only 1.6 miles, but Riley wouldn't have been happy. The trail was a lot like the Clarno Unit (hot, steep and dry) but the views were spectacular. Then I returned around sunset to see if the evening light made a difference. The light did bring out the colors a little more and the shadows highlighted the contours. Definitely worthwhile. The only downside – I now have about 150 pictures to show you! Lol.

Red Hill.

Check out the lavender at Painted Cove.

A lovely lake is just outside the park boundaries.

The Painted Hills.

Not all the awesome views are inside the park.
The hillside next to this field is a work of art.

Another roadside vista - basalt cliffs framed by colorful hills.

Back in the park, view from the Carroll Rim Trail.

Another shot looking down from the Rim Trail.

Third time's the charm. Let's see how it looks in the evening light.

Gorgeous!

Full moon above the hills.

Last one, I promise! :) 

Our next stop is Tumalo State Park outside of Bend, OR. We managed to snag reservations for Memorial Day and the day after. Rog is hyped about the mountain biking trails and visiting Crux, one of his favorite breweries. Should be fun!