Where Angels Fear to Tread

We figured, and rightly so, that it would be extremely unlikely to find a site still open in the national park campground in the afternoon. So we went directly to Plan B and unhitched the mule to scout for boondocking sites. We settled on a nice spot off of Sheep Bridge Road with eye-popping views of Zion park and Flying Monkey Mesa.

View from our campsite. Another reason to hate boondocking, not!

Flying Monkey Mesa?? Well, Technically, its name is Hurricane Mesa, but in the early 1950's the site was used to test supersonic airplane ejection seats. You can guess where the “flying monkey” came from. Yes, really. A little bit of interesting history behind the colorful name. Still, I feel sorry for the monkeys!

Poor monkeys launched from this mesa top - all in the name of safety and science.

We got set up and just hung out around the coach for the rest of the day. A car pulled up later in the day, it turned out to be the camp host for the first come/first serve campground in Zion. She wanted to ask us about boondocking and we got the skinny on the campground. Apparently it is full every day, with folks lining up at 5:30am to try and get a spot. After hearing that we decided to just make the 15-mile drive to the park and keep our lovely (and free!) boondock spot. She regaled us with stories of her camp host experiences. They are putting in 13-14 hour days – waaaaay too much work for a volunteer position in my opinion! Kudos to the volunteer staff, the parks literally could not operate without them.

​On Monday, 5/22, we drove into Zion National Park. At 10:00 in the morning the line to get into the park was daunting and there was already a sign posted stating the parking lot was full. We made a U-turn and found a shady parking spot in town. There is a shuttle from the town to the visitor’s center, but it wasn’t a long walk so we hoofed it. Inside Zion a separate shuttle system is used to get to the various overlooks and trailheads. While you can drive to a limited number of places, the scenic drive within the park is accessible only by shuttle. Given the crowds, it’s not a bad system. I can easily imagine the gridlocked traffic before the mandatory shuttle system was implemented. Ugh! 

We planned for an easy day, hitting the visitor’s center and two of the shorter hikes. Riverside Walk is mostly paved and follows along beside the Virgin River. 

The Riverwalk Trail follows the Virgin River.

Along the trail are hanging gardens watered by seeps in the canyon walls.

When cute fails, thievery prevails!
Rog had to wrestle him for the lid to our peanut butter. Lol.

End of the trail, from here you walk in the river to the Narrows.
For now, the Narrows slot canyon hike is closed due to high water volume.

We also did the Kayenta/Emerald Pools loop. The shady, cool canyons by the pools were a welcome relief from the heat. Did I mention we’re not freezing anymore??  In fact, temps are in the mid to high 90’s most of this week and we’re feeling it. Too hot. Too cold. Too hot. Too cold. Story of my life. Lol. The pools are populated by Canyon Tree Frogs. When they get to croaking it sounds like a herd of sheep bleating. Lol.  

Valley view from the Kayenta Trail.

Beautiful!

Pour over into the Emerald Pools.

Another shot down river.

One of most popular and insane hikes at Zion is the Angel’s Landing Trail. My brother, Tim, and friends, Mikey and Glen, did this hike and said it was a must do. Ok, so I am surrounded by evil.   The hike starts off innocently enough at the Grotto trailhead. You cross the Virgin River with lovely views up and down the canyon. Ahead a giant monolith of red rock rises above you. We’re going where? To the top of that?? Get out my white jacket with the long sleeves that tie in the back, I am officially certifiable.

Early morning light as we cross the river.

Who's crazy now???

The first part of the hike through Refrigerator Canyon is beautiful – cool and shady with lots of trees. Then the climb begins. Walter’s Wiggles is a series of 21 switchbacks that hug the side of the cliff, climbing steeply to Scout’s Lookout. This part of the hike is still very enjoyable. Yes it’s a workout and there are sheer drop offs, but the path is several feet wide and paved. No problem. 

 

Switchbacks begin the climb.

Refrigerator Canyon - cool. :)

Walter's Wiggles.
(Walter was a sadistic bastard. Lol.)

Scout’s Lookout is where the smart people take a break, have a snack, enjoy the views, and turn around.  Those of us with no sense or a deathwish continue the last half mile or so. First crossing the saddle and then up the Hogsback – 1500 feet above the canyon floor and which is (and I quote) “ridiculously steep and narrow, using chains that are bolted into the stone to keep you from sliding over the edge of the cliff.”  Only there are gaps in the chains!! No one told me that!! Lol.

At Scout's Lookout, contemplating the last half mile.
There is no try, only do. (Or chicken out!)

Sheer enough for ya?
Fall and you won't bounce until you hit the bottom.

Going up... and up... and up.

Yes, this is the trail. Now you see why I have a thing for chains?! Lol.

After all of that, the final objective comes into sight. The Landing. Please note, in spite of its name, I saw no angels here. Where angels fear to tread, did come to mind! Of course, this place also gives a whole new meaning to “fallen angel.” 😊 The sloped crest on top is roomy and you can breathe easier (at least until it’s time to descend!) and take in the absolutely incomparable vista. You have a fantastic view down the valley, and well just down…. way down. Lol.

Proof positive - we made it! (Notice I am leaning away from the edge. Lol.)

Outstanding views down the valley.
The light wasn't great for photos, but I'm not doing this again for a loooong time. So deal with it. Lol.

Looking down at the river (far) below.

That's my Angel on the Landing.

Crossing the top, ready to go back down.

Down and then across that narrow spine.
Palms are sweaty just looking at the pics - can't believe I did this! Lol.

Even though we were on the trail by 7:30am, the crowds coming up as we tried to go down made things even more challenging. In many places, there is just no (absolutely no!) room to pass – even if you could pry my fingers off the chain. 😊 It was like a conga line of crazy people. Lol. We were really happy to be done and off the trail before noon. Between the heat and the crowds, I don’t even want to imagine how bad it was later in the day. Angel’s Landing is considered a bucket list hike and I’m happy to say it’s now crossed off my list for good! Lol.

Walter's Wiggles are no longer deserted. 

Tomorrow will be a much more sedate day – at least for me. I have three weeks’ worth of laundry to catch up on while Rog hits the mountain bike trails.