Monday, April 29, 2019

The Magical Antelope (Canyon)

During our year on the road we did several slot canyon hikes and I totally fell in love with them. There is something magical about squeezing through narrow, twisting sandstone channels sculpted by wind and water into fantastical shapes. Expansive vistas are grand, but there is something more intimate about a slot canyon. You don't just view the scenery, you experience it. And Antelope Canyon is a bucket list slot canyon. 

The canyon is situated on Navajo land and the only  way you can see it is with a guided tour. Normally that would be a turn off, but Antelope Canyon is so popular that without some regulation it would be mobbed. As it is, the most desirable time slots and tours can sell out months in advance!

There are two separate tours: Upper Antelope Canyon is where many of the iconic photographs are taken. If you time it right, stunning shafts of sunlight illuminate the sculpted walls. The tours are a little more expensive, but there’s an option for a longer photography tour. On the downside the traffic flow is two way and it is crowded.  Lower Antelope Canyon is a one-way hike through a twisted portion of the canyon that involves stairs and ladders. Reviews say it’s a little more casual and many folks who have done both liked it better.  Most important for us, we were able to get tickets to the Lower Antelope Canyon tour!


Fun Fact: The most expensive photograph ever sold was taken in Antelope Canyon by photographer Peter Lik. It reportedly sold to an anonymous bidder for $6.5 million. You’re getting all these gorgeous shots for free! What a deal. Lol.  

We arrived early on Sunday, 4/21, and checked in at Dixie Ellis Lower Antelope Canyon Tours. There are two tour operators for Lower Antelope and a different set of vendors for Upper Antelope.  The ticket times were staged about 15 minutes apart and there were probably 50-60 people lined up for our 9:15 time slot. My expectations were getting lower by the minute. However, only 10 people were assigned to each tour guide. Once we entered the canyon, the guides did a great job of keeping each group separate so everyone could get photos without hordes of tourists in every shot.

Checked in and waiting for our time slot.

The conga line descends.

Notice the toeholds to the left of the ladder?
That's what folks originally used to climb into the canyon. I'll take the stairs, please. 

Without the guides, all my pictures would look like this.  ☹

The canyon is Navajo sandstone, which is comprised of sand dunes formed in the Jurassic age. The canyon was carved by water and flash floods are still changing the landscape. While we were in awe of the beauty of the water carved canyon, those same forces can also be deadly. In 1997 a 40-foot wall of water swept through Lower Antelope Canyon killing 11 hikers. It was interesting to learn how much work goes into keeping the canyon safe and operational. Summer is monsoon season and heavy rains can close the canyon from a few hours to several days. A few years ago, the canyon flooded 22 times and had to be repeatedly pumped out and sand added to restore the stable walking surface.

Our guide, Andrea, was Navajo and Hopi and she talked about some of the traditions and cultural aspects of the Navajo people. She offered photo tips, pointed out formations, and offered to take pictures of us together. While she kept us moving, I didn’t feel rushed and the tour lasted about 1½ hours.

Inside the canyon the light changes constantly, even a few minutes can make a difference. You could do the same tour at a different time of day and have a totally different experience. Every step, even the tilt of your head, changes the perspective.  I cannot begin to describe how beautiful it is – colors, textures, shapes. I took about 450 photos and it took supreme effort to ruthlessly cull that to around 150. So, if you don’t like these pictures, I have a hundred more! Lol. Some of the shots are close ups to you show you the textures, some focus on the light and colors. Words fail me, so most won't be captioned. I'll just shut up now and show you what I'm talking about.  Enjoy!!

Oh yes, I'm smiling!



A few folks in the lower right give you an idea of the scale.




These erosion patterns are called "Shooting Stars".
I think they look like tadpoles, but that doesn't sound as good. Lol.


You can see the sand floor in this picture.
The guides have to replace the sand when the floods wash it away. 

This formation is called "Twin Peaks."







This formation was named "Bruce" after the shark in Finding Nemo. Lol.



Woman in the Wind.

Indian Chief formation above. 

This looks like ocean waves frozen in stone. 

A tumbleweed caught in a shaft of sunlight.
Still smiling!

Hopefully you enjoyed your tour of Lower Antelope Canyon! Next up will be our Glen Canyon float trip and a boat tour to Rainbow Bridge. Yes, we were busy!

5 comments:

  1. So cool! I still haven’t been in one of the slot canyons yet. I think I would like all the formations, textures, and shapes. Lol @ “Bruce”...

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    1. Slots are awesome! As long as you're not claustrophobic, they are so much fun. Add it to your must do list. :)

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  2. So beautiful! Almost other worldly...

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  3. Well that was weird, don't know why I came up as anonymous lol. Anyway, the comment above is mine...

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    1. Lol. Stealth comments. Thought I had a secret admirer. :) Wait until you see some of the pics from our hike today in Coyote Buttes South near Kanab, UT - you'll wonder what planet we visited. It'll be a bit though, I'm a couple posts behind. Gotta get to work on it, but we're too busy having fun. Ain't retirement tough? Lol.

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